What to see in the Moroccan city of Tetouan:
Many of our excursions halt in Tetouan, because it is one of the most fascinating cities in the northern part of the country. It has a population of approximately 400,000 people, and Unesco has designated its historic medina as a World Heritage Site. Attesting to its beauty and distinctiveness, with its crenellated walls, colourful gardens, and endearing corners. And fortunately for the traveller, it is a city that is not overrun with tourism, so you can experience it without throngs.
Content
Tetouan, in Morocco, is referred to as the White Dove, a distinct reference to the predominant colour of its architecture, but also to its strategic location: its earliest section rises on a hill as if it were attempting to take flight. In the following paragraphs, you will learn everything you need to know about Tetouan: its location, a concise history, what to see and do in Tetouan, as well as shopping and dining options.
The weather
It is situated in the fertile basin of the Martil River, with the picturesque Rif Mountains to the south. Here, the climate is significantly influenced by Tetouan’s location in the extreme north of Morocco, in the Mediterranean region. Although it is not a coastal city, it is about 10 kilometres from the ocean, so its humidity and latitude produce a climate that is more temperate and agreeable than in other regions of Morocco, as well as more moist, with about 80 days of precipitation per year. Despite its location at the base of a hill and its proximity to the Rif, Tetouan is only 90 meters above sea level, so it cannot be said to have a mountain climate. The summers are warm and arid, whereas the winters are moderate. The average summer temperature is 35oC, while the average winter temperature is 22oC, and the thermometers rarely dip below 10oC in January, the coldest month. Tetouan, like Morocco, has a high number of sunny days per year, the greatest assurance that any excursion will be enjoyable.
Brief background
There are many distinct periods in Tetouan’s history, all of which are fascinating and some of which were crucial to the formation of the modern city. Notable in particular is Andalusia’s tumultuous relationship with the Spain of the past, the origin of the Andalusian population centuries ago and the political capital not so long ago, as well as the source of much of the country’s architecture.
Tetouan was founded during the Merinid or Benimerin sultanate of Abu Thabit at the start of the fourteenth century. It arose as a military stronghold to initiate operations against Ceuta. But it soon found a new purpose: becoming a haven for pirates who plied the waters of the Mediterranean. This angered King Henry III of Castile, who destroyed this minor city and deported its inhabitants around 1400.
This initiated a century-long interlude in which Tetouan was virtually abandoned. From 1492 to the end of the 17th century, however, it experienced a renaissance that originated on the other side of the Mediterranean: the expulsion of Jews from Granada and, later, Moors from the rest of the Spanish kingdom led to the settlement of tens of thousands of people with these origins. Among them was Sidi Ali Al Mandari, who fled Granada to avoid the Inquisition’s persecution and became the leading proponent of Tetuan’s repopulation and rebirth.
It endured a naval blockade by Philip II’s Spain in the second half of the 16th century, but also adopted the refined customs introduced by Al-Andalus ‘heirs’. During the 17th and 18th centuries, international trade coexisted with the practice of piracy, particularly during the reign of Mulay Ismail, which spanned the 17th and 18th centuries.
Already in the 19th century, hostilities continued with the Spanish, and Tetouan was part of the operations board in the war of 1859-60 between the two countries: at first, the Spanish troops took Tetouan, but Morocco regained it two years later, in 1862 when Isabel II ruled Spain and Mohamed IV ruled Morocco.
In 1913, Tetouan was once again under Spanish rule, this time as part of its Protectorate in the north of the country (with its capital in Tetouan, precisely), and was impacted by the Rif War during that decade and the succeeding one. Tetouan was definitively incorporated into the Kingdom of Morocco in 1956, as a consequence of the culmination of Morocco’s independence process. Today, Tetouan continues to play an important administrative role, in this instance as the ‘head’ of the Rif, and King Mohammed VI spends his summers in his regal residence, which demonstrates the significance the Alaouite dynasty placed on the city.
Where to find
To better plan what to see in Tetouan, it is recommended to partition the visit into two main areas: on the one hand, the Unesco World Heritage-listed medina, and on the other hand, the modern city, which emerged primarily in the early twentieth century. Here are all the attractions in both regions.
The bazaar:
As with the vast majority of medinas in Morocco, the medina of Tetouan has a genuine character: surrounded on three of its four sides by the old wall, its interior is a maze of narrow streets, many of which are steep and twisted, it rests at the foot of the hill where, incidentally, much of the enclosure of the kasbah or castle still stands.
The ascent to the summit is difficult for those with little physical fitness, but it is rewarded with breathtaking views of the entire city and the Rif Mountains, which can be seen to a large extent from the adjacent cemetery.
It is no coincidence that, when strolling through the medina’s narrow streets, one is reminded of the historic villages and neighbourhoods of Andalusia, as this area was constructed primarily by Jews and Moors expelled from Castile in the late fifteenth century. It is common to find tile ornamentation on the pavement, walls, and columns, just as it is in many regions of southern Spain.
Here, visitors feel near the residences of the most profoundly ingrained Tetouanis and can observe small souks and stores where traditional handicrafts are still produced and sold. Jewellers, furriers, craftsmen, and confectioners who sell the popular kesra pastries, which are popular in Tetouan and Morocco in general, are among the most prevalent professions.
Although the ambience is not as brilliantly white as in the new city, you will find many other authentic tones, notably in the clothing of the locals: the tawny hues of the peasants, the white djellabas worn by men, and the red-and-white patterned cotton purchasing suits worn by women.
This list of locations to visit in Tetouan is a useful resource for discovering some of the most fascinating spots in this northern Moroccan city. Although they are not listed in any particular order, the following are some of the most notable websites worth learning about:
The Place de Hassan II is one of the most significant squares in Tetouan because it connects the medina to the modern city. This square contains the Lions’ Fountain and several traditional cafés.
– The Caliph’s Palace is one of Tetouan’s most iconic structures. It was the residence of the local sultan during the Spanish Protectorate, and the Moroccan royal family currently uses it as their summer residence.
– El Yun is a neighbourhood located beneath the kasbah that contains the mosque El Musaimidi, the Sidi Ahmed El-Nayi Mausoleum, and the Souk el-Fuki. This neighbourhood is also home to the traditional market of Tetouan, where you can purchase local goods such as seasonings, fresh produce, and artisanal goods.
– During the Protectorate, the Spanish forces used the Kasbah as their quarters. The kasbah offers breathtaking views of the city and surrounding mountains.
– Bab Mkabar is one of the wall’s historic gateways and the one nearest to the cemetery. From here, you can enter one of the most attractive cemeteries in Morocco, where you can admire monuments adorned with intricate Moorish carvings.
– The el-Blad neighbourhood is a bustling area of artisans where you can find numerous ceramics, textiles, and other decorative object workshops. This neighbourhood’s central square, Place de l’Usaa, is an ideal spot to sip mint tea on a terrace.
The Regional Museum of Nationalism is a fascinating museum that chronicles the history of Tetouan and Morocco up until its independence. The structure that contains it was constructed in the nineteenth century and features a central atrium and iron supports.
– The Bab el Oqla is one of the most magnificent wall gateways and a small citadel that contains Tetouan’s Ethnographic Museum or Museum of Moroccan Art. This museum contains collections of furniture, costumes, and commonplace objects that reflect the influence of Andalusia on regional art.
– Rue Ahmed Torres is one of the principal avenues in the medina, where there are numerous traditional shops. The Mellah is the ancient Jewish quarter of Tetouan, where the 19th-century Isaac Bengualid Synagogue is still preserved.
– The Craft School is an institution devoted to instruction in traditional handicrafts, such as zellige (local tiles). Tourists interested in learning about the various techniques employed by local artisans may also visit.
Tetouan, also known as Ensanche, is a contemporary Andalusian city.
To the west of the medina is a neighbourhood known as the new city or Ensanche, which arose in the early twentieth century when Tetouan was the capital of the Spanish Protectorate in Morocco. It followed in the footsteps of numerous other Spanish ensanches, and its purpose was to expand or ‘widen’ the city in an orderly fashion, facilitating urban mobility and traffic at a time when the automobile was just beginning to gain popularity as a mode of transportation.
This new city was constructed in the image and resemblance of Andalusian architecture, itself an heir to the Moorish Andalusian style of the past, but by contemporary modernist preferences. In addition, the Junta de Andalucia participated in the space’s most recent significant renovation, which modernized the area and strengthened its aesthetic connections to the southern region of Spain.
On the other hand, this Moorish-modernist neighbourhood was the ideal setting for the television adaptation of Mara Dueas’s novel El tiempo entre costuras, the series El tiempo entre costuras. Therefore, one of our excursions explores the locations where the seamstress Sira Quiroga lived and worked.
– Church of Our Lady of Victory: A Christian temple constructed in 1919 in an eclectic design. In addition to its remarkable architecture, the church continues to serve as a place of worship for adherents of this religion.
This plaza, formerly known as Plaza Primo Rivera, is a prominent Tetouan public space. Here is where the Spanish consulate is located.
– Zauia Isauia: An Islamic school and inn constructed in the early nineteenth century. This religious institution in Tetouan provides a glimpse of Islamic teaching and tradition.
– Instituto Cervantes: The Instituto Cervantes is a Spanish institution that promotes the learning and dissemination of the Spanish language in Tetouan and throughout Morocco. Those interested in the Spanish language and culture have access to courses, cultural activities, and a library.
Feddan Square is a sizable square that has become a popular place for locals to congregate. Here you will find cafés, shops, and restaurants where you can unwind and appreciate the ambience of Tetouan.
– Archaeological Museum: Considered Tetouan’s most important museum, it displays an extensive collection of archaeological artefacts from northern Morocco. This museum provides an enthralling glimpse into the ancient history of the region, including antiquities from the Phoenicians, Romans, and Berbers.
This museum emphasizes contemporary art and creativity in Tetouan and is housed in the former train station. It features exhibitions by local and international artists, and its location in a historic building adds to its allure.
What to see in the vicinity of Tetouan: the adjacent area
If you plan to spend several days in Tetouan, you may want to consider a day excursion to the surrounding area, which is filled with fascinating diversions and attractive sites that have little to do with the city itself. The best way to reach these locations is by road, for which our agency can provide a private vehicle and driver. These are some of Tetouan’s most intriguing routes:
Mediterranean vacation coastline.
The Mediterranean coast is only 10 kilometres from Tetouan, as the crow flies. This is one of the reasons why this route is favoured by Tetouanese and northern Moroccans. Places such as Mdiq, Martil, Marina Smir, and Cabo Negro have hotels and facilities that cater to sun and beach tourism.
Direction to Oued Laou
This is yet another route to the coast, but it differs significantly from the previous one. It is a traditional summer resort and fishing community where harbours and cliffs predominate in an environment with a high ecological value. Oued Laou, located after this route, is home to a population that is increasingly concentrated on national tourism, either from Tetouan or Morocco, while maintaining its traditional agricultural and fishery activities. The octagonal minaret of its synagogue, the fortifications from the Spanish protectorate period, and the small fishing vessels silently anchored along the shore are among its most distinctive landmarks. Near Oued Laou is also Beni Said, which is particularly fascinating on Saturdays when there is a souk featuring pottery and donkeys, a common animal there.
Direction to Chaouen
Chaouen is one of the most attractive villages near Tetouan and in Morocco in general. Consequently, it is also included in our northern excursions. It is also possible to visit other fascinating sites along the route, such as the pre-Roman ruins of Tamuda or Ben Karrich el-Bahari in the mountains of Beni-hozmar, where the Spanish constructed a renowned tuberculosis sanatorium in the 1940s. It is also worthwhile to continue to Muley Abdeselam, passing through extraordinarily beautiful landscapes between pine forests and cork oaks. Many ascend the mythical Mount Jbel el Alam, which, at nearly 1,200 meters above sea level, provides a panoramic view of Tetouan and the surrounding area. In addition, Muley Abdeselam is a revered saint, and his mausoleum is a site of pilgrimage for the entire region.
Where to dine and/or imbibe
Tetouan is one of the finest locations to experience the magnificent cuisine of Morocco. Anchovy tajine is one of the country’s most renowned cuisines. Due to the city’s proximity to the ocean, its restaurants typically serve excellent fresh fish. Moreover, there are numerous cafés and confectionary stores where you can purchase something delectable. Here are some recommendations:
– Blanco Riad establishment: This establishment is known for its tranquil atmosphere and blend of Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine. It is highly recommended by visitors to Tetouan.
– Riad El Reducto has a restaurant serving Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine of the highest quality. Customers commend the restaurant’s service and ambience.
This establishment is renowned for its family-friendly atmosphere and its delectable Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine. The couscous is particularly recommended by guests.
– Esquina del Pescado is the perfect location for seafood aficionados. Visitors praise the quality of the fish and the restaurant’s relaxed ambience.
– Sed Nakhla – Le Restaurant du Lac: With its panoramic view and delectable Moroccan and European cuisine, this restaurant on the periphery of Tetouan is ideal for a special dinner or occasion.
Moreover, local delicacies are highly valued in Tetouan and Morocco, and visiting a pastry establishment is a delightful cultural experience. Specifically, we can highlight:
– ERRAHMOUNI confectionery store. Rue Youssef Ibn Tachfine is located in the centre of the Eixample. It is one of the most well-known in the city and offers a unique blend of Arabic and Spanish confections.
Where to buy
In Tetouan, you can take a pleasant retail stroll to purchase local wares. Close to the Caliph’s Palace, Ben Larbi Torres Avenue is one of the most significant avenues in this regard. Numerous local artisans are clustered in this area and are categorized by their specialization, with jewellery receiving special mention.
Within the medina, there are numerous bazaars and shops where you can purchase local wares. From teapots and lamps to carpets, headwear, Beni Said pottery, leather products, and wood decorations, the market offers a vast array of items.
In Ensanche or the new town, there are also several fascinating stores, particularly those selling textile or raffia rugs, home furnishings with a variety of decorations, mirrors, etc.
The School of Arts and Crafts, near Bab el Oqla, is a place that combines the cultural and commercial: although it is not a sales space, festivals and events are sometimes organized to promote the work of the students, which may include ceramics, jewellery, or leather.
Lodgings and lodgings in Tetouan
There are a variety of accommodations in Tetouan that cater to the requirements and preferences of each traveller. There are hotels of varying categories in the Ensanche neighbourhood, some of which feature restaurants ranked among the finest in the city. Moreover, many of these hotels feature charming spaces, such as terraces with panoramic views.
In the medina of Tetouan, you can find riads, which are rehabilitated ancient homes built around a central courtyard and decorated with traditional woodwork and tiling work. Riyads are an excellent option for those in search of endearing lodging and a more authentic experience.
Around Tetouan, particularly along the Mediterranean coast, new hotels have been constructed, including some resorts with swimming pools, solariums, and other relaxation-focused areas.
In conclusion, Tetouan city provides a variety of lodging options, ranging from deluxe hotels to endearing riads and new vacation resorts in the surrounding area. It depends on the preferences and requirements of each traveller.